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Rakaposhi Expedition

Created with Sketch. Nagar valley
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Duration

40 Days

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Tour Type

Specific Tour

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Group Size

30 people

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Languages

English

Overview

Rakaposhi Expedition

Rakaposhi 7788-M is a mountain in the Karakorum mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means “shining wall” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak. Rakapushi and Dumani (“Mother of Mist”) It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Notable features
Räkapoşi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain, almost unmatched in the world. For example, it rises 6000m in only 16.5km horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Räkapoşi from the Karakorum Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Gulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called “Zero Point of Räkapoşi” is the closest convenient viewpoint of the mountain.

Climbing routes
The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):
Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route) Long, but not exceedingly technical, some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles) has been repeated
Northwest Ridge Long and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge Has been repeated
North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult, has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.
Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.

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Itinerary

Day-01: Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Welcome at Islamabad airport, and transfer to hotel. After refreshment proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Day-02 Drive form Islamabad to Chilas

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours, 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.

Day-03: Drive from Chilas to Gilgit

Drive to Gilgit 3-4 hours 134 km. Transfer to hotel. After refreshing final preparation of expedition and visit Gigit town.

Day-04: Giligit to Joglot and Darkush

Drive to Joglot and Jeep transfer to Joglot village and trek to Darakush. Overnight in tents

Day-05: Trek from Darkush to BC

Trek to Rakaposhi base camp on Kunti glacier. Overnight in tents

Day-06- 36: Climbing Days

(31 days in Rakaposhi base camp for climbing)

Day-37: BC to Darakush

Trek down to Darakush. Overnight in tents

Day-38: Joglot to Chilas

Trek down to Joglot and drive to Chilas. Overnight hotel

Day-39: Chilas to Islamabad

Drive to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173m. Overnight at hotel

Day-40: Fly Back Home

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight

Included/Exclude

  • Specialized bilingual guide
  • Private Transport
  • Entrance fees
  • Meals
  • Additional Services
  • Insurance
  • Drink
  • Tickets

Tour's Location

Created with Sketch. Nagar valley

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Created with Sketch.
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