Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley Nagar District approximately 100 km north of the capital city Gilgit of the Gilgit–Baltistan province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means “Snow Covered” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani (“Mother of Mist”). It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. Rakaposhi has an uninterrupted vertical rise of approximately 6000 m (19,685 feet), making it the tallest mountain on Earth when measured from the base to peak.
Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.
Rakaposhi is one of the magnificent peaks in the world. The peak dominates the horizon and is constantly visible from the Karakorum highway, it looks so beautiful that the first ever glance at it inspires charms and lures an on looker to be in its abode, it is also one of the easy accessible peak being lying on the Karakorum highway.
Famous glacier valleys, like, Biro, Barpu, Bagrot and Pissan surround the peak, and it has 3 faces to climb, from South east face biro glacier Goglot Goh, valley from North West Pissan glacier from west Ghulmet face which is a long route to reach to the main summit.
Technically it begins with ice and later on with rock steep and over hung walls, only easy from Juglot side from which several expeditions got on the summit.
In 1938 it was explored by British India with a German man R Campbell Scord who have scaled a small peak of Rakaposhi group 6858m that was first attempt of Rakaposhi group from Juglot Nala.
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